Lawns 
The following information is more in note form rather than in depth, however it should give you a basic understanding of turf and lawns.  
 

A brief history of the Lawn 
  
British lawns more or less started around the medieval times within the courtyards of castles for the lords and ladies to take their daily constitutional and escape from the odours of the castle also the monasteries at this time should not be forgotten. 
Really it isn't until the Tudor & Elizabethan times that the garden and the lawn became a place to be loved and admired. 
 
Created as walkways and for play areas (bowls etc) the lawns weren't as we envisage them today. They were made up of meadow plants etc, chamomile was a particular favourite. 
 
In the early 1600's the Jacobean epoch of gardening began. It was during this period that the closely cut British lawn was born. By the end of this period the English lawn was the envy of even the French. It was also seen as a symbol of status by the gentry.
 
In the early 1700's gardening fashion went through a further change. William Kent and the age of Capability Brown were in progress, and the vast English Landscapes were seen all over Britain. Lawns seemed to flow from the garden into the outer landscape. 
 
During the Victorian times as more plants were introduced into Britain, and the influence of France and Italy etc, lawns became smaller as borders were created and filled with plants, statues, sculptures, terraces and water features which started eating into the area covered by the English lawn. 
But in 1830 Edwin Budding was to invent a piece of equipment that would revolutionise the way lawns were to be maintained forever. It was the cylinder mower. 
   
Up until the invention of the mower lawns were under control by trampling and beating to suppress the growth, grazing animals, rolling and scything, which proved to be extremely labour intensive. 
 
However the mower made cutting the lawn quick and neat plus you didn't have to be skilled to use the equipment. Americans started to mass produce mowers for the ordinary in the late 1800's. 
 
The next step for the lawn mower was the horse drawn mower in the mid 1800's, steam driven mower in the late 1800's, petrol mower early 1900's not forgetting the hover mower in the late 1960's early 70's . 
 
Another important factor that has shaped the way our lawns look is research into grass seed species. The Americans began research in the late 1800's, in Britain it wasn't until the 1920's 
 
This research has become extremely  important not just for our lawns but for sport. With so much money involved in the business of sport whether it be football, rugby, golf etc if the surface isn't in tip top condition the result could be blamed for one side or the other to lose the match or championship. 
  
As regards research into lawns, climate aspect and usage are all important factors for researchers finding the right mix of seed. 
 
 Lawns
A typical lawn is usually in need of renovation, moss, weeds, thin and bare patches. 
To obtain any sort of reasonable quality looking lawn, regular maintenance work is required. There is no quick fix with this process, usually between one to three years. 
A number of processes are required to obtain a quality lawn which are explained below. 
Aeration. 
What is aeration? Air and water can penetrate the surface when the layers of compaction just below the surface is broken when holes or slits are created in the ground. 
 
Why aerate?
 There are a number of reasons for carrying out aeration on a lawn. 
1. To allow air, oxygen carbon dioxide exchange around the roots. 
2. Relieve compaction. 
3. Improve drainage
4. Aid the application of top-dressing, fertilisers etc. 
5. Helps the breakdown of thatch. 
6. Reduces potential for diseases to take hold. 
7. Aids overall health, growth, rooting & aesthetics
There are a number of tools you can use to aerate turf with
 
Solid Tine
Garden fork is a perfect example. This makes a hole in the turf. 
Hollow Tine
This piece of equipment removes a solid core of soil. 
  
Blade Tine
This appliance makes a slit in the soil. 
  
Although solid and blade tines aid the turf with their holes / slits they tend to push and compact the soil to actually create these holes/ slits. 
However the hollow tine actually removes solid cones of soil which makes the application of top dressing etc and the whole process far more thorough. 
Edging
During the growing season your lawn will become untidy on the edges and will slowly encroach into the border.
Where the lawn meets the borders hand shears or a strimmer don't get the same neat finish as a half moon edger. 
Unlike a digging spade a half moon has a straight blade which gives the clean cut finish. 
  
Fertilising
Research into chemicals / weedkillers / selective weedkillers has allowed gardeners to help keep weeds at bay. 
 
From moss treatment, feed and weed to autumn care manufacturers package all these lawn treatments for you and distributors sell them at the correct time of year making your choice very easy. 
 
Mowing
Generally the lawn growing season in Britain is between March and October, but with the unusual weather we have been receiving in the past few years this is altering from year to year. I recently received an article that forecast our cutting season would change from March to October to October to March due to drought conditions in the usual mowing season and the wetter weather returning October - March allowing the turf to grow. Time will tell!
Cylinder mowers give a far better cut than rotary mowers. If you have a luxury lawn this is the type of mower you need. Disadvantages include the cost to buy and they struggle to cut long grass with a satisfactory finish. 
Rotary mowers don't tend to give the same finish as cylinder but they are cheap to buy, light to handle and allow difficult areas to be cut i.e slops, uneven turf etc. 
The height of cut during the season is important, at the beginning start on a higher cut and as March - April progress, gradually reduce the height. 
If you take the cut too low this can encourage moss and other problems. 
The ideal length of turf you are looking to cut to is between 12.5mm (1/2 inch) - 25mm (1 inch) but this depends on the quality of lawn you have in your garden. 
 
Scarification
Scarification is carried out for a number of reasons. 
  • Removes & controls thatch.
  • Controls weeds, moss, clover etc
  • Improves water penetration
  • Improves airflow around the grass reducing risk of diseases.
  • Improves incorporation of fertilisers, top-dressing etc. 
  
Equipment that can be used for the scarification process range from a spring-tine rake, electric scarifier or petrol scarifier for larger lawns. 
   
Water
  
Very often I lay a new lawn and the customer forgets to water the turf. 
Maybe considered as common sense regular watering throughout dry periods is needed. 
There are a wide variety of sprinklers on the market. I usually recommend an oscillating sprinkler for customers to use.  
 
Laying Turf and Seed. 
 
Whether laying turf or seed you need to prepare the site thoroughly. 
The site needs to be cleared of:-
  • Weeds
  • Stumps
  • Roots
  • Rubble
  • Debris 
  • Stones
also the site might need drainage put in if the site is water logged. 
    
Turf
 
When buying turf most suppliers make choice easier, standard or premier. 
 
Standard will stand up to the wear and tear of family life. 
 
Premier is more for lawn lovers with no children or pets. 
 
When the turf arrives unroll a few of the rolls of turf to check that they are not yellowing or bone dry. 
 
Start laying your rolls at the edge of your site to 2 rolls width. Lay your turf  as if building a wall so there are no edges of turf laid in line (the lines are staggered).
 
Use planks to stand on when working your way along whether you are on the turf or soil. 
  
Any overlaps should be trimmed with a half moon. Ensure you keep the turf well watered throughout the first season during any dry periods. 
  
Do not treat any new lawn with any fertilisers for at least 6 months. 
 
Seeding. 
  
Seeding a site is far cheaper than turfing but not as instantaneous. 
Again choosing seed has been made far easier by manufacturers whether you want a family, luxury lawn or need to sow in a particular aspect i.e shady. they have boxed the unit of seed ready for your purchase. 
  
Hydroseeding
 
Usually used on areas with not a lot of top soil or on slopes where turfing or seeding is not able to be carried out. 
  
Simplified, seed is added to a special liquid mix and is sprayed all over the specified area. 
 
Used more in the commercial sector rather than private. Further information regarding hydroseeding can be obtained from www.hydroseeding.co.uk
 
Whether turfing a new site, or returfing an existing tired lawn, Derwen Goppa can offer a full turf laying surface, from site preparation through to finished lawn. A full lawn maintenance schedule can also be provided so that the quality of the lawn can be maintained.